Pruning Your Roses

Pruning your roses is one of the most needed and the most annoyingly difficult tasks that goes with proper rose care. It takes a steady hand the proper procedure to ensure the best possible roses that you can get. 

Pruning your roses is basically the act of getting rid of dead and damaged pieces, and teaching the new growth to grow in the correct outward facing direction. That just means that you are training them to grow facing the outside of the shrub or bush. This gives your roses the correct amount of circulating air to thrive in.

Here is a list of the proper techniques to guide through the pruning process.

Soak your pruning shears in equal parts of water and bleach. This will help to protect your roses from diseases and insects.

Pruning in the early spring, just after the snow melts is best. However you want to do it before any new growth appears. The best time would be when the buds are swelled, or red.

Hand shears are the best tool for pruning the smaller branches. (about 4 ½ inches thick) Loppers are best for the branches that are thicker or the thickness of a pencil. This will make it easier. You should use a heavy pair of rose gloves to avoid the thorns.

You want to get rid of the winter protection that you set up like cones, burlap, and mounded soil.

You want to get rid of the dead wood first. (That would be the black wood that is black inside as well as out).

Next, you wan to get rid of the thinner wood, which is the stems that are thinner than a pencil.

Cut all of the branches that cross or overlap one another because these are often diseased or will become so.

Keep the remaining five healthy branches. These are often dark green. You will want to make your roses fluted or vases shaped, with an open center, and keep them from touching or overlapping each other.

Cut your healthy canes to be about one to four feet long, or whatever size that you prefer.

Cut you roses properly so that they stay healthy. Cut so that the bud is facing outside of the bush and at a 45 degree angle that slopes inward so that you can keep promoting the outward growth.

You should use bypass pruners that work like scissors and not the anvil types because the anvils crush the stems and make the roses more available to diseases.

You should plant contained roses in the spring, after you are absolutely positive that there is no chance for a return of the frost. If you live in a warmer climate like Florida or California, you will want to plant in the early autumn, once the weather has cooled off a bit.

You will want to choose roses that do not have any flowers on them because you are simply trying to establish your roses. You are not trying to make your roses flower just yet. If you have to, trim the flowers off of them before you plant them.

You definitely want to choose the right environment for your roses. You will want to plant them in an area of the garden that is susceptible to a lot of light in the morning, (at least 6 hours worth) because early morning light helps to dry the dew off of the flowers, which will help prevent fungal diseases.

If you want the transition of your roses from a pot to your garden to go smoothly, you will need to prepare your soil very well. You want your soil to be well drained for the health of your roses.

Once you have prepared your soil, you will want to work several spadesful of composte into the planting hole after digging in a hole that is about two feet deep.

Tap your rose from its original container and plant it. You will also want to position it so that the soil level of the rose matches the soil level of the surrounding soil.

Lastly, you will want to dig a mote-like ring around the rose so that you can pool the water.

That’s all there is to planting potted roses. See that was not so difficult was it? As you probably noticed, it is a lot like planting your roses that were never potted, but of course with some slight differences. It can be a very rewarding thing, to plant your very own rose garden.

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